A team of researchers at the University of Oxford and Edinburgh have found out and recreated how the ‘Draupner rogue wave’ , commonly known as freak wave, can occur. The freak waves are larger than surrounding waves. As they, mostly, appear without a warning they have caused many vessels to sink.
Specifically, the researchers concluded that in order to measure a freak wave, they would have to make two groups of smaller waves that crossed at 120 degrees.
The researchers along with the teachers were amused as they created a wave similar to Katsushika Hokusai’s famous ‘Great Wave’.
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Moreover, as the wave was measured from the Draupner Oil Platform, a freak wave with a maximum wave height of 25.6 meters (84 feet) took place, in a sea state that was about 12 meters (39 feet) height.
Before the measurement, which was made by a downwards pointing laser sensor, there’s was no instrument that recorded rogue waves.
In addition, when the waves are not crossing, then the wave breaking reduces the possible height a wave can achieve. On the contrary, when waves cross at large angles, then the wave behaviour alters and there’s no limitation as to where a wave’s height can be reached.
The one of the first officially confirmed ‘freak’ waves, was a result of observations of a rogue wave, and was measured on January 1, 1995, in the North Sea.
In conclusion, the research was led by Dr. Mark McAllister and Professor Ton van den Bremer at the University of Oxford, in collaboration with Dr. Sam Draycott at the University of Edinburgh. The project builds upon work previously carried out at the University of Oxford by Professors Thomas Adcock and Paul Taylor.